8 keys to successfully growing escarole that we should all know.

Welcome once again to our Novamulch agricultural space. This time, we’ll explore in detail all the essential steps for growing escarole and achieving optimal results. We’ll also be integral contributors to the balance of our ecosystem by using sustainable techniques such as biodegradable paper mulch.

Growing escarole is an ancient agricultural practice that has evolved from the regions of Ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia to modern urban farming systems. This leafy vegetable, prized for its slightly bitter flavor and crunchy texture, adapts to a variety of production environments, from open fields to terraces, balconies, and pots, making it a versatile option for both farmers and those interested in home and urban cultivation.

If we design a project to grow high-quality escaroles on our roadmap, we need to connect not only with their historical background, which serves as a frame of reference, but also with the specific needs of these vegetables in terms of climate, soil structure, proper fertilization, and irrigation management.

Selecting among the various varieties or cultivars based on location and season will be a decisive step that will determine not only yield but also resistance to bolting and water stress, which is a serious problem for escaroles. Furthermore, understanding the pests and diseases common to these vegetables will allow us to prevent losses and maintain crop health.

Historical background of escarole cultivation.

Mesopotamia and Ancient Egypt.

One of humanity’s oldest agricultural systems has been dated back 4,000 years, especially throughout the regions of Ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia. It was during this time that the genus Cichorium appeared: plants that, in their primitive form, were already known and used in digestive and medicinal preparations. Cuneiform inscriptions and various Sumerian and Akkadian botanical records show traces of the use of bitter plants included in ritual diets and herbal remedies in the form of infusions.

In the gardens of the Assyrian and Babylonian Empires, intensive agriculture was already practiced on the banks immediately adjacent to the irrigation canals, where edible herbs such as some varieties of bitter lettuce and chicory, relatives of escarole, were grown.

Along the banks of the Nile, the ancient Egyptians cultivated various leafy plants to take advantage of the fertile silt that remained after the floods, and although there is no direct mention of Cichorium Endivia recorded in Egyptian medical papyri, several digestive preparations made from bitter leaves are described, among which wild species related to endive and chicory are believed to have been present.

Traces have been found in hieroglyphics and tomb reliefs, which show the importance of this type of cultivation, the consumption of these plants raw or cooked for ritual purification purposes due to their cleansing properties, and their use in funeral rites as a symbol of resurrection and offerings to the Gods.

Ancient Greece.

During the 5th and 3rd centuries BC, Greek thought integrated botanical knowledge into medicine, agriculture, and philosophy. The Father of Botany, the scholar Theophrastus (c. 371–287 BC), records the existence and use of various species of bitter-leaf vegetables cultivated in Greek gardens. His descriptions show close similarities with the specific characteristics of escarole and chicory, such as serrated leaves, bitter taste, digestive uses, and winter cultivation.

Furthermore, in Hippocratic medicine, these plants were considered very appropriate for balancing the body’s humors, “cooling” the stomach, and stimulating the appetite. At this time, cultivating escarole was becoming a common practice in fertile, well-drained soils located on terraces and at the edges of fields. They were harvested before flowering to prevent the leaves from hardening.

Ancient Rome.

The Romans inherited and expanded the agricultural knowledge of the Greeks, and thus significantly promoted the cultivation of “Intubus,” the name by which escarole and chicory were known, in the agronomic treatises of this period.

In his work Naturalis Historia, Pliny the Elder (23–79 AD) makes specific descriptions of the common cultivation of several varieties of leafy vegetables such as Intubus Sativus, and makes comparisons between wild species and those that had already been domesticated, planted in the autumn to be harvested in the winter, which is very similar to the cycle followed today to cultivate endives.

The great physician Dioscorides (1st century AD) left us clear traces of the medicinal properties of “Intubos”, emphasizing its soothing and purifying properties, due to its bitter taste, very characteristic of escarole.

Endive consumption became very popular during this period, and they were eaten cooked as an accompaniment to meats and legumes, or in fresh salads with vinegar and garum, a fermented fish sauce used as a salty and aromatic condiment, very similar to our modern soy sauce or Asian fish sauce. Written records date the cultivation of endives in ancient Greece and Rome, and their classification as a species of the genus Cichorium.

Middle Ages.

Following the fall of the Roman Empire, all previous agricultural knowledge declined. However, in the “Hortus Conclusus,” or enclosed monastery gardens, horticultural practices were preserved, developed, and kept alive, as these were centers for botanical and seed conservation. These were spaces dedicated to the cultivation of medicinal and edible plants, especially in France, Italy, Germany, and the Iberian Peninsula. Bitter-leafed species such as escarole were cultivated for their digestive value and their growth and yield in both temperate and low-temperature climates.

Benedictine monks copied Greco-Roman texts and, based on them, wrote agricultural manuals and adapted crops to the climatic conditions of northern Europe.

Under the wise influence of the humoral medicine of Galen and Hippocrates, they came to identify that escaroles and chicories were “cold and dry” plants, very effective in reducing internal heat, purifying the blood and developing treatments to combat liver and digestive diseases, which is why they systematically included these plants in the convent diet.

Latin herbals such as the Herbarium Apuleii (6th century) and the Tacuinum Sanitatis (13th century) were highly influential documents, as they accurately illustrated and described the health-giving and medicinal properties of all the plants grown in their gardens. These documents contain references to escarole and chicory, previously known as Intubus or Intiba, and the Tacuinum, originally from the Arab world but adapted to Europe, contains detailed illustrations of the harvesting of these leafy vegetables in very well-structured gardens.

An agrarian ordinance of the Emperor Charlemagne, the agricultural text Capitulare de Villis (8th century), requires the cultivation of several plants on the imperial estates, including Intuba or Intiba, which significantly contributes to the spread of bitter leaf crops such as endive throughout Carolingian Europe.

During the Middle Ages, escaroles were eaten raw, in simple salads, and seasoned with vinegar, salt, and sometimes honey, as well as cooked in legume broths. In monasteries, they were also included as food during Lent, as they were considered a humble vegetable appropriate for fasting. Growing escaroles was a common food and part of the basic repertoire of medieval pharmacopoeia as a necessary ingredient in the preparation of poultices to relieve fever, jaundice, inflammation, and digestive disorders.

Renaissance.

During this period, interest in applied botany and agricultural diversification was renewed, and endive cultivation became an experimental practice, producing various varieties such as curly endive (Cichorium endivia var. crispum) and smooth-leaf endive (Cichorium endivia var. latifolium), especially in Italy, France, and Spain. The morphological characteristics of these varieties were recorded in several agricultural treatises of the 16th and 17th centuries.

Introduction of escarole cultivation in the American Continent.

It is known that the first Spanish settlers carried vegetable seeds that were essential to their daily diet and that they frequently cultivated in their peninsular gardens. These included lettuce, chard, spinach, and escarole.

The first European settlements in the Caribbean, on the Atlantic coast of South America and in the Viceroyalty of New Spain, present-day Mexico, reproduced the model of the European garden where growing escarole played an important role due to its multiple properties. This practice spread successfully to Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Chile and the highlands of Central America, whose mild temperatures allowed for almost annual escarole cultivation.

Monasteries, convents, and family gardens adopted these agricultural practices, as they obtained not only nutrient-rich foods but also essential ingredients for herbal medicine.

19th century.

Escarole is consolidating its position as a highly valued vegetable in European markets. Its production in Spain extends especially to the regions of Valencia, Murcia, Navarre, and Catalonia, where it currently remains the leading domestic producer.

During this period, empirical methods of cultivation and experimentation were implemented until the development of scientific horticulture began. This led to the creation of varieties that are still highly valued today: the giant winter endive, the curly endive of Ruffec (France), and the Batavian endive (Netherlands). Furthermore, seed catalogs were created and began circulating throughout Europe at the end of the 19th century, coinciding with the rise of the first commercial seed companies.

20th century.

Beginning in the 1950s, a significant shift began to occur in agricultural production, with innovations such as mechanized cultivation, the rise of localized irrigation, greenhouse cultivation, and genetic improvement that created high-quality varieties that were more resistant to diseases and pests.
Regions such as Murcia and Alicante in Spain, Languedoc-Roussillon in France, and parts of northern Italy have established themselves as European leaders in escarole production.

21st century.

Little by little, a general concern about the environmental impacts of intensive agriculture is beginning to grow, so, in this context, sustainable techniques have begun to be applied to escarole cultivation, such as the implementation of crop rotations to recondition soils, biological pest control, pilot experiments with biodegradable paper mulch to maintain certified organic farming and facilitate the integration of residues into the soil after harvest, without the use of synthetic chemicals.

Nowadays, it is very common to incorporate humidity sensors, traceability systems, and remote irrigation control to optimize resources and ensure crop quality. Currently, around 2,500 hectares of escarole are grown in Spain, mainly in the Region of Murcia, and a large portion is exported to France, Germany, and the Netherlands.

The following link may be very useful:

https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cichorium_endivia

To grow escaroles we need to study their agronomic characteristics.

Escarole is a short-season annual herbaceous plant cultivated for its edible leaves. It belongs to the Asteraceae family and is morphologically adapted to temperate climates. Its vegetative structure makes it especially suitable for fresh consumption, and it is appreciated for its texture, leaf volume, and characteristic flavor.

Root System.

The main characteristic of escarole is its thick, well-developed vertical root extending from the base of the stem and its finer lateral branches. This allows the plant to firmly anchor itself in the soil, up to 20 to 40 cm deep, and this increases its ability to absorb water and nutrients from deeper layers, which is very beneficial during dry seasons. Furthermore, due to this structure, it does not need to compete with shallow-rooted plants.

Foliar System.

Its leaves grow closely together from the base, forming a circle or crown near the ground (basal rosette), and each new leaf appears in a spiral pattern, seemingly twisting around the leaf before it. Escarole ranges in light to medium green tones, and in some varieties, may turn yellowish after blanching. Its length varies from 15 to 35 cm, depending on the stage of growth and variety. Its texture is crunchy, with a smooth or slightly rough surface.

Stem.

Very short or absent during vegetative development.

Bloom.

During its reproductive phase, escarole develops a vertical stem that can grow up to 1 meter long, on which flower heads in bluish or lilac hues form. Once this reproductive phase begins, the plant is no longer suitable for consumption, as the leaves become more bitter, toughen, and lose their texture.

Fruits.

Like dandelion and sunflower, escarole produces nuts containing a single egg-shaped seed covered by a soft, smooth skin.

How to create a seedbed for growing escarole? Let’s watch this video:

And this video shows us how to remove the bitterness from our escaroles. Let’s see:

What varieties can we select to grow escaroles?

The varieties of the species Cichorium endivia, to which escarole belongs, are divided into two large groups. Let’s study.

Curly endive (Cichorium endivia var. crispum).
They feature deeply divided leaves with curled or serrated edges in light or dark green hues, with a crisp texture and slightly bitter taste. Widely used in gourmet salads and baby leaf mixes.

Smooth or broad-leaved endive (Cichorium endivia var. latifolium).
With broad, smooth, rounded leaves, lighter shades inside, and a milder, slightly sweet flavor, they are generally highly appreciated in all types of markets.

Let’s now look at some cultivars of these varieties. Remember that cultivars are plant varieties that have been artificially selected and improved to achieve more disease-resistant production, with superior, consistent, and stable yields.

Curly endive (Cichorium endivia var. crispum): Fine de Louviers (France), Wallonne, Frisée de Meaux.

Smooth or broad-leaf endive (Cichorium endivia var. latifolium): Full Heart Batavian, Angel Hair Endive, Winter Giant.

Improved cultivars (F1 hybrids): Performance (Seminis), Wallonne F1, Caravaggio (Rijk Zwaan).

Distribution of escaroles in Europe.

In Spain, smooth varieties predominate, destined for export to France, Germany, and the Netherlands, while in France and Italy there is a stronger tradition of curly varieties appreciated in cooking for their particular texture.

How to grow escarole in different environments?

Endive is a vegetable that adapts very well to any type of environment; however, we must take care of this first step: properly preparing the soil so that our crop is healthy and produces high-quality fruit. Each environment has specific characteristics that will impact the root and leaf development of our endives, so we will study each case individually to optimize the resources available to us and ensure our agricultural project is successful.

Growing escaroles in the open field.

Necessary climatic requirements.

The ideal climate for growing escarole is temperate to cool. To avoid premature bolting (premature formation of the flower stem) or excessive bitterness, it is necessary to consider all the factors of each environment in advance so that our plan can be carried out with optimal results. For example, the appropriate temperature for proper vegetative growth ranges between 12° and 18°C, while the minimum tolerable temperatures can reach -2°C, but not for prolonged exposures. On the other hand, temperatures above 20°C and even up to 22°C favor bolting for long exposures.

It’s advisable to avoid growing escarole during warm seasons and at night temperatures above 15°C, so we can maintain the reproductive phase in its normal development cycle. If we grow our vegetables in Mediterranean climates, with sunlight exposure exceeding 13 or 14 hours during long days, it’s important to note in our growing log that these vegetables are sensitive to long exposures to sunlight and produce early flowering. Therefore, if we start planting in late summer or early fall, we can guarantee a more balanced cycle for these climates.

Growing escarole outdoors requires drip or sprinkler irrigation in its initial stages. Once the buds appear, avoid wetting the foliage by irrigating toward the soil. For this purpose, it is very important to use biodegradable paper mulch, as it maintains adequate moisture levels and prevents the leaves from remaining wet.

Let’s have this diagram handy, showing the appropriate times to start sowing, and the potential climate risks that may occur during these seasons:

Mediterranean Region.
Recommended time to start growing: August to October.
Potential climate risks: long, dry summers, bolting (premature flower stem formation).

Temperate Continental Zone.
Recommended time to start growing: July to September.
Potential weather risks: early frosts.

Atlantic Zone.
Recommended time to start growing: August to November.
Potential climatic risks: high humidity, foliar diseases.

We can say that growing escarole in the open field requires prior agronomic planning based on local climate fluctuations. The ideal conditions for implementing our plan will be in areas with mild autumn and no early frosts, where temperatures do not exceed 20°C or drop to -2°C during the vegetative phase.

This video shows how to grow escarole organically in the open field:

Proper soil preparation and nutrition for growing escarole.

We will choose a soil with good drainage capacity, loose, preferably loam or sandy loam with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0.

• We will till the soil to a depth of 20 to 30 cm to give the root system the opportunity to develop properly.
• Likewise, we must level the soil as much as possible in order to ensure uniform and stable irrigation (drip fertigation is more effective) throughout the growing season, thus avoiding potential waterlogging.

Now we add organic plant matter. Let’s review.
Compost made from pruning remains, grass, dried leaves, garden scraps, peels, and kitchen vegetable and fruit waste, well-rotted, loose, and dry; all of this stimulates the growth of beneficial microorganisms and greatly improves soil structure and increases water retention.

Biochar (activated charcoal).
This is a charcoal produced by pyrolysis (heating without oxygen), porous and rich in stable carbon, obtained from plant biomass that must be dry and clean, such as thin tree branches, nutshells, tomato, artichoke or escarole canes, pruning remains, crushed wood chips or sawdust, and very importantly, avoid using treated, varnished wood or wood with traces of paint, pesticides or other chemicals.

Biochar is a highly suitable compound for retaining water, nutrients, and beneficial microorganisms in the soil, thereby improving soil structure. To activate it, mix it with mature compost and let it sit for 2 to 4 weeks. You can also soak it in compost tea, seaweed extract, liquid humus, or vermicompost leachate.

Which endive cultivars are suitable for open fields?

Let’s analyze this scheme:

Wallonne (Clause).

A classic cultivar very popular in Europe. It has a medium-season, curly, light green leaves, and a well-formed heart. It is cold-tolerant, late-setting, and well-suited for planting in open fields during the fall-winter season, for export and sale in domestic markets.

Performance F1 (Bejo).

A vigorous, high-yielding, short- to medium-cycle hybrid, highly valued commercially for its appearance and texture, and its high resistance to downy mildew (Bremia lactucae), a common disease of this species. Suitable for sowing in open fields during the spring-summer period.

Natacha (Clause).

This cultivar appears in European catalogs as the smooth variety, but there are commercial mentions of a curly version. It has a medium cycle, is resistant to tip burn (apical burns caused by leaf dehydration), and offers excellent quality for both fresh markets and export.

Magdalena F1 (Enza Zaden).

Magdalena F1 (Enza Zaden) Hybrid cultivar with good uniformity and resistance for open fields, also very resistant to tip burn and recommended for autumn-winter sowing in open fields.

Varieties of smooth endive (Cichorium endivia var. latifolium).

Winter Giant.

This is a traditional variety widely used in Spain for intensive cultivation. It has large leaves, is very resistant to cold temperatures, but is sensitive to bolting in hot summers. It has a medium-long cycle, lasting more than 80 days. Suitable for winter sowing in open fields.

Excel (Seminis).

This mid-season variety has excellent foliage presentation and internal closure, and is highly adaptable to different soil structures. Recommended for planting in temperate climates during the spring-summer period.

Pamplona (Rijk Zwaan).

It appears as a smooth variety in European catalogs. It is a short- to medium-cycle hybrid, suitable for planting in cool areas during the spring-summer season, with good bolting tolerance and uniform quality for the fresh market and export during warm seasons.

In Spain, the Wallone and Gigante de Invierno cultivars are particularly widespread and exported in the Murcia region and the Valencian Community.

Soil fertilization for growing escarole in the open field.

At this point, we’ll keep track of the crop in our growing log, as our escaroles are nutrient-demanding and require a balanced strategy tailored to the growing season and prior soil analysis. Let’s study.

First, we must measure the soil structure to determine the levels of organic matter, the pH, which should be between 6.0 and 7.0, the levels of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), and micronutrients such as calcium, magnesium, and boron. All of this makes it easier for us to make precise amendments for our fertilization phase, thus avoiding deficiencies or excesses.

If the soil we have available to grow escaroles has an acidic pH, we must incorporate agricultural lime, and if our soil is alkaline, we will apply elemental sulfur or acid compost.

What is acid compost?

This is an organic fertilizer made from materials that, when decomposed, generate a low pH (generally between 4.5 and 6.0), and is suitable for improving soils for crops that prefer slightly acidic conditions.

Let’s see what organic mixture makes up this fertilizer:

• Conifer pruning waste: pine needles, cypress, cedar, and fir twigs, which provide resins and natural acidity. Do not overuse.
• Dry leaves rich in tannins: oak, chestnut, holm oak, and beech leaves, which slow down decomposition but acidify the soil composition.
• Blond peat: helps retain moisture but should be used in minimal doses.
• Manure from granivorous animals: poultry or pigeon, which can increase the pH level if used in excess.
• Citrus peels and coffee grounds: Orange, lemon, and grapefruit peels, used coffee grounds, which serve as excellent sources of acidic organic matter and beneficial fungi.
• Sawdust or untreated softwood shavings, such as pine and fir, provide carbon and lower the pH level; they decompose slowly, so they should be used in thin layers.
• Overripe or fermented fruits: apples, bananas, and grapes. These are natural organic acids that help keep compost acidic.

After several weeks or months of fermentation, this acidic compost will acquire a dark color with a forest-earth smell, a pH of approximately 5.0 to 6.0, which will be very appropriate for improving the soil and generating a good capacity to absorb nutrients and retain water, and suitable for growing escaroles, strawberries, hydrangeas, chard, blueberries, or spinach.

Next, let’s analyze organic fertilization in the background.

As organic matter, we should include vegetable compost and biochar, which we discussed earlier, or mature compost (it should smell like damp earth, not garbage or ammonia), or well-fermented manure, which should be well-composted, dry, and loose for at least four to six months to avoid burning the roots. Compost improves and renews soil structure, promotes greater drainage and water retention, and serves as a slow and progressive release of nutrients. It is recommended to add this material at least two to three weeks before planting begins.

Let’s now review complementary mineral fertilization, preferably organic:

• Endives develop rapidly and require a large amount of nutrients, especially Nitrogen (N), to maintain healthy leaves and vegetative growth. Potassium (K) and Calcium (Ca) should be applied 10 to 15 days after sowing begins, when the first leaf shoots are observed; they will provide potassium sulphate and calcium nitrate, and improve tolerance to water stress and the quality of the head, Magnesium (Mg), as rock powder or organic foliar fertilizer, which are essential to avoid physiological problems such as marginal burns or tip burn.
• Amino acids, algae, or natural extracts, stimulants for growth during periods of stress. These act as biostimulants rather than primary fertilizers, and we apply them as foliar sprays every 15 to 20 days during the active growth phase.

Let’s consider fertigation, which is very effective in these cases.

• As we know, fertigation is an agricultural technique that allows us to add nutrients to irrigation water. This makes the entire cultivation process much more efficient. When we decide to grow escarole in open fields, we must be aware that this vegetable is sensitive to both nutrient and water deficiencies and excesses, so implementing this fertigation system can address both situations.
• We improve leaf growth by forming healthy, robust buds, reduce common diseases caused by water stress (such as tip burn), and prevent early bolting, the early flowering phase.
• The most commonly used system is drip irrigation, as this way the liquid goes directly to the soil, to the roots, without touching the leaves (thus preventing the appearance of fungi due to excess moisture), and we have much better control over the amount of water and fertilizer our escaroles receive.

When should we use fertigation in escarole cultivation?

• During the first 2 weeks we will do it once a week, adding mild Nitrogen and Phosphorus.
• When the first leaves appear, we will apply Nitrogen and Potassium once more 1 or 2 times per week.
• During the bud formation phase, we add Potassium, Calcium and Magnesium twice a week.
• And the last two weeks we will do fertigation with water and light potassium, according to the observations we make of the evolutionary process of our crop.

Which organic fertilizers are compatible with fertigation for growing escarole?

• Natural potassium sulfate, to improve the quality of the buds.
• Ecological calcium nitrate, to prevent tip burns.
• Plant amino acids or algae extracts, to help in times of water stress.
• Organic micronutrient chelates (iron, zinc, etc.), if we observe deficiencies in the structure of our escaroles.

Remember that it is very important to dissolve fertilizers well and filter the water to avoid blockages in the irrigation system, as well as to carry out fertigation at early and cool hours of the day (dawn and dusk), keep the drippers free of obstructions or blockages, and avoid excess nitrogen to prevent our escaroles from developing rapidly and producing early flowering.

Soil maintenance for growing escarole in the open field.

It is highly recommended to spread biodegradable paper mulch before starting cultivation and once the soil has been properly prepared, to inhibit the appearance and proliferation of fungi and weeds such as sedge, to control humidity levels, temperature or wind fluctuations, possible compaction, leaching, and to protect both the soil and the crop’s root system.

Growing escaroles in home and urban gardens.

Necessary climatic requirements.

It’s always advisable to grow escarole in cool climates between 10° and 20°C, with moderate winds. If gardens are planted in climates prone to strong winds, we need to protect them with plant barriers or netting.

As an essential complement, spreading biodegradable paper mulch over the soil in the beds ensures moisture balance and root security without potential soil compaction or the proliferation of fungi and weeds.

In our urban and domestic gardens, we should organize the spaces so that daily sunlight exposure is as low as possible, ranging from 5 to 6 hours, avoiding the sun’s rays during the most intense hours. Here, we consider installing lightweight, eco-friendly covers over the crops.

Likewise, watering should be regular, avoiding waterlogging, and keeping the substrate slightly moist. Irregular watering can cause tip burn or necrosis of internal leaves in our crops. Let’s avoid this.

Proper soil preparation and nutrition for growing escarole in home and urban gardens.

We will combine loose soil without debris or stones, vegetable compost, coconut fiber, or perlite to achieve a good balance of air and water retention. Between crop cycles, we must disinfect the soil, make any necessary amendments or renewals, and rotate crops to inhibit the growth of any remaining pathogens. To do this, we can use organic liquid amendments such as nettle slurry or compost tea every 15 to 20 days. As a base fertilizer, we recommend applying loose, dry, and finely crumbled mature compost or worm castings.

If we prefer to apply biochar, it’s recommended to soak it in a container or tub for about a week, for example, in the cooking water we’ll store after washing vegetables. We’ll apply it before transplanting our escaroles, mixed with the layer we’re going to till.

Now, let’s make sure to measure and record the balanced contributions of Nitrogen (in compost, worm castings, alfalfa or seaweed meal, for leaf growth), Phosphorus (ground phosphate rock as a natural phosphate for root development), and Potassium (untreated wood ash, mature compost, seaweed, to promote stress resistance and bud quality).

In general, we should use loose substrates, with a loamy or light texture, and renew or mix it with compost to maintain its structure and fertility.

Which endive cultivars are suitable for home and urban gardens?

If we’re going to grow escarole in these smaller environments, the following selection of cultivars can serve us well due to their ease of cultivation, short cycles, good adaptability to diverse conditions, and resilience in more restricted areas. Let’s take a look.

Galia Frisée.

Curly endive (Cichorium endivia var. crispum).

Description:
Galia Frisée is a variety of escarole highly valued in urban and home gardens for its rapid growth, finely curled leaves, and compact heart.
It is distinguished by its ease of cultivation, resistance to moderate cold, and good self-blanching capacity of the head, which improves its flavor and texture.

Main characteristics:
Medium/short cycle: 60 to 70 days until harvest.
Finely curled, light green leaves with a tender texture.
It is also suitable for growing in pots, planters, or small beds.
Good tolerance to bolting if grown in fall or spring.

Advantages of growing Galia Frisée escarole in urban gardens:
It requires little space to grow with good quality.
It is very productive in small areas.
It adapts easily to Mediterranean climates.

Green Curled Ruffec.

Curly endive (Cichorium endivia var. crispum).

Description:
This is a traditional cultivar, well known for its highly curly, bright green leaves and lighter-colored core. It is highly valued in home gardens and small-scale crops for its hardiness and slightly bitter flavor, which is characteristic of curly endives.

Main characteristics:
Average growing season: approximately 75 to 85 days from sowing.
Good cold tolerance and therefore suitable for autumn and winter cultivation.
It forms a broad rosette with curly, highly decorative leaves.
Adapted to both open fields and urban gardens and large pots.
Requires manual blanching of the heart (tying or covering) to reduce bitterness.

Advantages of growing Green Curled Ruffec escarole in home gardens:

It improves adaptation to light soils with good drainage capacity and moderate irrigation requirements.
It achieves a more refined flavor and a crispier texture.
It ensures good shelf life after harvest.

Frisée de Meaux or traditional curly endive.

Curly endive (Cichorium endivia var. crispum).

Description:
Originally from France, it is well known for its culinary quality and rusticity.

Main characteristics:
Very curly, thin leaves in light green tones, with white or pink veins at the base, forming a compact, wide rosette measuring 40 to 45 cm.
Medium growing season, between 60 and 70 days from sowing to harvest. This variety or cultivar is resistant to low temperatures down to -5°C, as well as moderate heat, making it suitable for autumn and winter crops in open fields or urban gardens.

The Frisée de Meaux cultivar is an excellent choice for small home and urban gardens for the following reasons:

• Ease of cultivation.
• It is a hardy variety that adapts well to different soil and climate conditions, ideal for non-professional growers.
• Natural self-bleaching.
• Its heart or center blanches itself without the need to tie the leaves, which simplifies maintenance.
• Suitable for smaller gardens. Since it forms a compact rosette between 40 and 45 cm tall, it grows very well in planters or deep containers.
• Flavor and texture. Its thin, curly, and slightly bitter leaves provide high culinary quality and are especially appreciated in fresh salads.

Full Heart Batavian (Cichorium endivia var. latifolium).

Also known as broadleaf endive and native to Europe, this variety has been widely cultivated in both home gardens and open-field farms, especially in temperate climates.

Main characteristics:
Broad, smooth, light green leaves with pronounced veins.
Medium growing season, generally between 75 and 90 days from sowing to harvest.
Good cold tolerance, making it suitable for fall and winter plantings, and good resistance to premature bolting.
Dense and full heart or center. As its name suggests, it forms a closed, naturally blanched central bud, very suitable for fresh consumption due to its mild flavor.

The Full Heart Batavian cultivar offers multiple advantages for home and urban gardens, thanks to its adaptability, resistance, and quality:

This variety is easy to grow in small spaces, as its compact build and orderly growth allow it to be grown in pots, raised beds, or planters.
It produces smooth leaves with a tender texture and delicate flavor, perfect for fresh salads.
It tolerates fall and winter temperatures very well, extending the growing season in temperate climates.
Its central bud blanches naturally, without the need for tying or covering, making it easy to manage in home gardens.
It is quite resistant to the early bolting common in changing climates, which reduces losses.

Broad-Leaf Batavian or Florida Deep Heart.
Traditional broad-leaf variety (Cichorium endivia var. latifolium).

This variety originates in Western Europe, where Batavia-type cultivars have been selected for centuries for their adaptability to cool climates. The name “Florida Deep Heart” refers to a selection adapted to the southern regions of the United States, specifically to the mild winter conditions of Florida, where it was introduced and cultivated extensively since the early 20th century.

Main characteristics:
Large, smooth, and broad leaves in light to medium green tones, with prominent veins and a tender texture. Its flavor is milder and less bitter than that of curly endive.
It forms a compact central head that also blanches naturally, improving its appearance and flavor.
Depending on climatic conditions, its crop cycle is approximately 75 to 90 days from sowing to harvest.
It adapts quite well to fall and winter sowing, especially in temperate or Mediterranean climates.
It has moderate resistance to early bolting, making it also suitable for early spring crops in cool climates.

This cultivar is widely used in traditional and home gardens for its ease of cultivation, pleasant, sweet flavor, and highly valued in local markets for its voluminous presentation, especially for winter salads.

Pancalieri to Costa Bianca.
Curly endive (Cichorium endivia var. crispum).

It is a traditional variety recognized for its high culinary value and attractive appearance. It is especially appreciated in gourmet markets and by consumers seeking escaroles with excellent flavor and visual quality.

Originally from the Piedmont region in northern Italy, in the area of Pancalieri, a farming town in the province of Turin, from which it derives its name.
“A costa bianca” means “white-ribbed” in Italian, and refers to the morphological trait that characterizes this cultivar.

Main characteristics:
Very curly, finely divided leaves in bright green hues, with a white to whitish heart or center, dense and well-formed.
One of its distinctive features, and as its name suggests, is its leaves are shaped like wide, pale ribs with white midribs, giving them visual appeal.
Its wide, open rosettes reach between 30 and 40 cm in diameter.
It has a slightly bitter taste, making it very suitable for eating in fresh salads or lightly cooked.

This variety has adapted for fall and early winter planting in temperate climates.
It is moderately resistant to low temperatures and common diseases such as mildew,
as long as the soil is rotated, and must be fertile, properly prepared, and have good drainage capacity.

Pancalieri is highly appreciated in Mediterranean and haute cuisine for its crispy texture and visual and decorative quality.

Growing escaroles in greenhouses.

Necessary climatic requirements.

Greenhouses offer many advantages, especially in cold climates or those with irregular rainfall. Growing escarole in these well-protected spaces guarantees greater control over climate and temperatures, fungi, pests, and diseases, and ensures continuous production throughout the fall and winter months, regardless of the climatic factors of the region or environment where we plant this greenhouse.

Proper soil preparation and nutrition for growing escarole in greenhouses.

Before starting our project of growing endives, we must analyze the structure of our soil to make the necessary adjustments to the base fertilizer, which should include Phosphorus (P) for initial root development, Potassium (K) to strengthen the cellular structure and cold tolerance, and Nitrogen (N), which we will divide into several contributions to avoid high concentrations that will produce early heading or susceptibility to diseases.

As in open fields, we need loose, well-aerated soils with loamy or sandy-loam textures to allow for proper development of the primary and secondary roots, and adequate drainage. The pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0, and we will check for any salt buildup due to irrigation.
If the soil becomes compacted, we will add river sand or composted organic matter, and we will till the soil deeply, 20 to 30 cm, to allow for continuous aeration and thus prevent possible root suffocation.

It’s recommended to use fertigation with these nutrients, adjusting it to each phase of the growing cycle. Irrigation or fertigation should be uniform, but we should be alert for any signs of waterlogging. For this, the best recommendation is to use drip irrigation directly into the soil (without touching the leaves) and achieve a level soil as much as possible. Solarization and biofumigation are also necessary between plantings; this way, we prevent the proliferation of nematodes and other soil-borne pathogens.

However, we can avoid these problems by using biodegradable paper mulch, as we won’t have problems with excessive moisture, fungal and weed proliferation, and soil compaction or cracking. This material is a great stabilizer that saves us unexpected costs and allows us to achieve high yields in any type of environment. It also undergoes a biodegradation process and becomes a rich nutrient for our next crops.

Which endive cultivars are suitable for greenhouses?

In this agricultural section, we’ve analyzed various cultivars of escarole, and we’ll list here those that can be grown in greenhouses and will guarantee good yields and high quality. Let’s review our cultivar chapter to identify each one.

In Spain, in the regions of Murcia, the Valencian Community, and Navarre, the following cultivars are very common:
Wallone (Clause), Performance (Bejo), Magdalena F1 (Enza Zaden), Natacha (Clause),
Pamplona (Rijk Zwaan), and Excel (Seminis).

Grow escaroles on terraces, balconies and in pots.

Necessary climatic requirements.

In this case, we must consider the microclimate of the environments we’ve chosen to grow escaroles—whether on our terraces, balconies, or pots. This can particularly influence the development of our crop.

• The appropriate temperature we should estimate is between 15° and 20°C, since these vegetables do not tolerate colder conditions or those higher than 24°C (they can cause early bolting).
• Well-ventilated spaces with a minimum of 4 to 6 hours of daily sunlight exposure are very appropriate, but if you only have a very warm area or one with a higher incidence of daily sunlight, consider using 30% or 50% shading netting, depending on the case.
• Since our escarole foliage consists of tender, delicate, and broad leaves, it is susceptible to dehydration due to strong winds or unexpected gusts. Therefore, we will use plant-based windbreaks or permeable mesh to allow ventilation but not the drying effects of the winds. Keep in mind that adequate humidity must be maintained at all times between 60% and 80%.
• In these environments, water tends to evaporate more quickly, and we must prevent water and heat stress. For this purpose, it’s highly recommended to water early in the morning or late in the afternoon. If we live in dry or highly exposed regions during the summer months, we recommend placing water trays near our plants, as well as grouping pots and containers together to create a humid microclimate.

Proper soil preparation and nutrition for growing escarole on terraces, balconies, and in pots.

The substrate and soil preparation for these environments require special attention, since we won’t have direct access to the natural nutrients of the soil, or agricultural soil, and therefore we must adequately supply them to create a sufficient and complete habitat for our crop. Let’s analyze the specific characteristics we will select as the “home” for our escarole growing project.

Here’s a video about growing escarole in a pot that might interest you:

We’re referring to containers at least 25 to 30 cm deep and 20 cm in diameter per plant. Appropriate materials include clay, treated wood, or UV-resistant plastic, with sufficient holes at the bottom to allow proper water drainage. At the bottom of each container, place a layer of gravel, volcanic rock, or expanded clay to prevent waterlogging or leaching.

We’ll prepare the substrate, which will be light, airy, and have good water and nutrient retention capacity, with no tendency to harden or compact. Before filling the containers, we’ll mix the following components well to achieve an even distribution and a correct and balanced physical structure of the substrate.

The recommended composition is as follows:
50% mature organic compost (plant-based or mixed).
30% coconut fiber, peat moss, or worm castings.
20% perlite, vermiculite, or washed river sand (improves aeration and drainage).

Organic matter contributions:
Mature vegetable compost: at a ratio of 2 to 3 kg per 10 liters of substrate.
Worm castings: provides slow-release nutrients and improves microbial activity. Use between 15% and 25% of the total substrate volume.
Dried coffee grounds or composted tea waste: in small amounts (5% to 10%), as mild nitrogen amendments.
Natural wood ash (unpainted and unvarnished): provides potassium and calcium. Use sparingly (one tablespoon per large pot).

Organic supplementary fertilization:
Once germination or transplanting has begun, it is advisable to reinforce nutrition with organic liquid fertilizers, applied every 10 to 15 days.
Compost or humus tea: Water with this solution to strengthen the roots.
Liquid seaweed extracts: stimulate growth and bud formation.
Diluted nettle slurry (1:10): excellent source of organic nitrogen.
Commercial organic liquid fertilizers: including balanced NPK (3-2-5 or similar) with micronutrients.

Soil maintenance during cultivation:
Avoid compaction by removing the substrate on the surface every 2 weeks.
Maintain balanced moisture levels; ideally, spread biodegradable paper mulch from the start of planting.
Replenish nutrients every 20 to 30 days. You can also apply a thin, top layer of compost, between 1 and 2 cm.
Measure the pH to maintain an adequate level, between 6.0 and 7.0. If it is acidic, you can apply dolomitic lime.

Which endive cultivars are suitable for terraces, balconies, and pots?

Based on the cultivar analysis we conducted in this agricultural area, we will note those that can be planted in these smaller spaces:
Green Curled Ruffec, Frisée de Meaux, Full Heart Batavian, Pancalieri a Costa Bianca, and Galia Frisée.

What is manual heart bleaching for escarole?

This means that, to achieve a more tender flavor and a more commercially attractive appearance, the outer leaves of the center or heart of the plant are tied together with string, rubber bands, or plant clips to protect them from sunlight and thus produce less chlorophyll (which causes bitterness). The leaves will turn white or yellowish, crispy, and much softer to the taste. The estimated and convenient time for blanching is between 5 and 10 days before harvest, depending on the variety and the climatic conditions of the crop.

The following video shows several ways to blanch escarole. Let’s take a look:

Beneficial associations for growing escaroles.

We suggest you review some articles we’ve published in our Novamulch agricultural space, and below are several links to help you learn how to combine compatible plants and improve your production.

Cuándo y cómo plantar cebollas : Guía detallada para un cultivo exitoso.

¿Cómo plantar ajos aplicando técnicas agrícolas modernas?

And this information is also very useful to us:

link: https://novamulch.eu/plantar-aromaticas-un-proyecto-rentable

Biodegradable paper mulch as an advanced technique for growing escarole.

Esta es una técnica agrícola de alta tecnología que nos permite hoy en día economizar, en modo superlativo, todo lo referente a costes e inversiones agrícolas recurrentes e imprevistos, que generalmente merman nuestros proyectos para cultivar en cualquier tipo de entorno.This is a high-tech agricultural technique that allows us today to achieve superlative savings on all recurring and unforeseen agricultural costs and investments, which generally undermine our farming projects in any type of environment.

Furthermore, our Novamulch paper mulch is a key tool with specific powers and tasks that provide essential benefits to our ecosystem and to the soil microbiota (the soil microbiome, which comprises the set of microorganisms such as bacteria, fungi, and actinomycetes that inhabit the soil and perform essential functions for its fertility and ecological balance).

Another of its attributes is biodegradability. Shortly after the crop cycles end, paper mulch has already begun to biodegrade, automatically transforming into nutrient-rich organic matter in the topsoil. This benefits us by reducing our ecological footprint, enabling the circular economy and regenerative agriculture, and therefore leaving no polluting residues, unlike conventional agricultural plastic.

Novamulch biodegradable paper mulch acts as a physical barrier to protect the soil structure that we have previously prepared to begin our cultivation: it prevents the proliferation of weeds, the formation of surface crusts that lead to compaction and erosion, limits the impact of water splashes on leaves and fruits, which cause diseases and fungi, and all this will preserve the microbial habitat and maintain the natural biological activity of the soil, and the healthy and robust development of our crops.

By implementing our Novamulch mulch, we reduce the use of herbicides and plant protection products, minimizing the chemical impact, avoiding overheating and water stress if we live in warm or water-poor regions, as well as the impact of frost, wind, and frequent rain, maintaining a balanced humidity and temperature throughout the growing process.

Especially if we choose to grow escarole and use Novamulch paper mulch, we reduce watering frequency and avoid fluctuations that can cause bud hollowing or tip burn. And if we use drip irrigation, which is highly recommended for escarole, Novamulch mulch is perfectly compatible with this system.

Why is Novamulch paper mulch especially useful for growing escarole?

Escarole is a leafy crop that requires cool, well-aerated soils with stable moisture. It is sensitive to stress from high temperatures, excess humidity, or competition for nutrients. It needs to produce well-formed, clean heads for sale or personal consumption.

Biodegradable paper mulch meets all these needs, maintaining optimal root conditions, protecting lower leaves from direct contact with the soil, and reducing the occurrence of fungal diseases such as downy mildew and botrytis by preventing splashing.

Harvest times for growing escarole.

Remember that some escarole cultivars have a 50- to 90-day cycle from planting to harvest, while others have a 50- to 70-day cycle. Environmental and climatic conditions also influence these cycles, so taking these variables into account, we will harvest when the outer leaves reach a good size, approximately 10 to 15 cm, or when the central bud feels firm to the touch.
In warm temperatures, we stagger sowing to avoid ripening during the summer, and we will harvest before the escaroles set, as the leaves become more bitter and tough.

We can also stagger the harvest, that is, remove the evergreen leaves while preserving the central ones to allow them to continue growing. If we need to harvest completely, we should cut the rosettes at ground level when we see that the bud is well formed. In low temperatures, it is advisable to harvest in autumn, winter, and early spring, and if we want to enhance the flavor, we should do so after brief frosts.

Storage to properly preserve escaroles.

At this point, we must take into account that escaroles are vegetables with a high water content, so once the harvest time is up, we will need to pay special attention to several previous steps to maintain their freshness, flavor, and nutritional value for at least 10 to 20 days:

• We won’t wash the escaroles before storing them. They should be stored dry, as excess moisture accelerates decomposition and encourages the growth of mold and mildew.
• We must remove any wilted or damaged outer leaves to avoid contaminating the rest of the head, while also remembering that each vegetable must be handled delicately, avoiding breaking or crushing the leaves.
• The proper temperature for storing escaroles should be between 0° and 2°C, with a humidity of approximately 95% to 98% to retain water and freshness.
• In addition, it is essential to achieve good ventilation without the possibility of generating condensation.
• If we need to refrigerate our escaroles, we wrap them in absorbent paper inside a clean, sealed container in the crisper drawer, or in a perforated bag. They should not be frozen, as the cells will crack and the leaves will lose their crispness and flavor when thawed.
• It is important to store escaroles separately from apples, bananas, or tomatoes, as these release ethylene and accelerate their deterioration.
• If a large quantity of escarole has been harvested and needs to be stored, it’s advisable not to remove them all at once, to avoid extending storage and risking wilting. In these cases, they should be stored in well-ventilated boxes and kept refrigerated.

Common pests and diseases to consider before growing escarole.

Pests.

First, let’s look at the pests that plague escarole crops. We mustn’t forget that biodegradable paper mulch significantly reduces the appearance of soil-borne pests and limits the spread of insect vectors:

Aphids (Aphis spp., Myzus persicae).
Description: Small, soft-bodied, green, yellow, or black insects. They congregate on shoots, veins, and the undersides of leaves.
Damage: They suck sap, deform leaves, stunt growth, and transmit viruses.
Symptoms: Curled, sticky leaves (honeydew), and the presence of ants.
Ecological control: Garlic extract, nettle extract, and potassium soap.
Biological control: Inoculate with ladybugs (Coccinella septempunctata) or lacewings (Chrysoperla carnea).

Whitefly (Trialeurodes vaporariorum).
Description: A very small, white, winged insect, measuring 1 to 2 mm, clusters on the underside of leaves.
Damage: It sucks sap and transmits viruses such as mosaic.
Symptoms: Yellowing, sticky leaves, general weakening of the plant, and the presence of white insects on the underside.
Ecological control: Yellow chromatic traps, spraying with potassium soap or neem oil.

Trips (Frankliniella occidentalis).
Description: Tiny, elongated insects, 1 to 2 mm in diameter, highly mobile. They hide inside young leaves.
Damage: They cause abrasions in tissues, leave scars, and transmit viruses.
Symptoms: Leaves with silvery or brown spots and uneven growth.
Ecological control: Blue sticky traps, applications of neem extract or tansy infusion, and inoculation of trap plants such as basil and marigold around the perimeter of the crop.

Slugs and snails (Deroceras spp., Helix spp.).
Description: Mollusks with or without shells, active at night and in high humidity.
Damage: Irregular perforations in leaves, especially in open-field crops and humid areas.
Symptoms: Leaves with holes and shiny slime.
Ecological control: Beer traps or crushed eggshells, application of ash or diatomaceous earth at the base, manual removal at dusk or dawn.

Leaf miners (Liriomyza spp.).
Description: Larvae of small flies that burrow into leaves.
Damage: Reduce photosynthesis and weaken plant development.
Symptoms: Whitish, serpentine tunnels on the leaves.
Ecological control: Remove affected leaves early, encourage natural enemies such as parasitic wasps (Diglyphus isaea), and use yellow chromatic traps.

Black ringworm (Agrotis segetum).
Description: Noctuid larvae that feed at night on leaves and young stems, cutting plants at ground level.
Damage: Total loss of newly transplanted seedlings.
Symptoms: Plants cut at the base or disappear.
Ecological control: Apply bacillus (Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki) at an early stage,
remove the soil before planting to expose the larvae to predators, and avoid excessive nighttime watering, which encourages their activity.

Soil nematodes (Meloidogyne spp.).
Description: Microscopic worms that infect roots.
Damage: Gall formation on roots, causing poor nutrient absorption.
Symptoms: Plants develop poorly without apparent cause.
Ecological control: Crop rotation at the end of each harvest, incorporating mature compost and organic matter with a biofumigant effect.

Diseases.

Now let’s analyze the common diseases that we must take into account when we are going to grow endives:

Mildiu (Bremia lactucae).
Type: fungal disease (oomycete).
Symptoms: Irregular yellowish spots appear on the upper surface of the leaves and a whitish mycelium appears on the underside. It can affect the bud and cause the plant to rot.
Favorable conditions: High humidity, around 90%, temperatures between 10° and 20°C, and poor ventilation.
Prevention and ecological control: Choose resistant cultivars (such as ‘Performance F1’ or ‘Wallonne’), maintain good ventilation and avoid overwatering, and apply preventative treatments with horsetail extract or potassium bicarbonate.

Botrytis or gray rot (Botrytis cinerea).
Type: Necrotrophic fungus.
Symptoms: Gray rot on inner leaves, especially in high humidity conditions. Can attack the closed bud.
Favorable conditions: High humidity and poor ventilation.
Ecological prevention and control: Avoid wetting the leaves when watering, space plants well, and thin them if necessary. Preventive applications with garlic or cinnamon extracts.

Biodegradable paper mulch prevents leaves from coming into contact with the soil and inhibits spore proliferation.

Sclerotinia or white rot (Sclerotinia sclerotiorum).
Type: Soil-borne fungus.
Symptoms: Wilting of the plant and soft tissues, and the presence of white mycelium with sclerotia (hard, black structures) at the base of the stem.
Favorable conditions: Moist, poorly drained soils.
Ecological prevention and control: Crop rotation (at least 3 years without planting the same species), avoiding excessive irrigation and soil compaction, and applying Trichoderma spp. as a biological antagonist.

Rust (Puccinia spp.).
Type: Fungus.
Symptoms: Orange or reddish pustules on the underside of leaves. Reduces photosynthesis and commercial quality.
Favorable conditions: Humid, temperate environments.
Ecological prevention and control: Remove debris from previous crops, apply nettle or horsetail infusions, and promote natural ventilation.

Tip Burn or internal burns (physiopathy).
Type: Physiological, non-infectious disorder.
Cause: Water imbalance or localized calcium (Ca) deficiency during rapid bud development.
Symptoms: Necrosis of the inner edges of the leaves, without the presence of fungi.
Ecological prevention and control: Constant supply of water and nutrients, especially calcium, foliar fertilization with calcium if necessary, biodegradable paper mulch to regulate soil moisture.

Final thoughts.

Growing escarole is an agricultural project we should include in our roadmaps. These vegetables adapt to any type of environment, from large cultivated areas to pots and containers, and in all cases we are guaranteed to produce a highly versatile and in-demand food, integrated with sustainability and our ecosystems. Today we can choose from a variety of varieties or cultivars, and select the one most adaptable to the climatic conditions and spaces we have available for growing escarole.

This plan, which we’ve studied in our agricultural sector, is of great help to us in achieving good performance in the short and medium term, and at low costs if we know how to leverage our inputs, especially if we implement the biodegradable paper mulch, Novamulch, our great ally in protecting not only our crops but also our wallets.

So, let’s get to work and good luck!